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Bo-Fish Bowling News
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Ask Bob by Bob Korth |
Article Archive #5
August 1, 2006
Q. I want to go into coaching bowling as a profession, I have a lot of bowling experience and have been coaching juniors at my home center for years. I think I know enough of the basics to skip at least the first set of coaching classes like the USBC bronze class. Is there a test I could take to be able go on to the next level?
A. No, there is no test that would enable you to skip the bronze class. In order to go to the Silver level you must first take the Bronze class and pass that test. I know that may seem unfair to you but believe me as much as you think you know about bowling there is always more you can learn. I thought I knew all the basics when I went to the bronze class but I quickly found out how many things I didn't know. The Bronze class was very informative and well worth the price. The best part is by everyone taking these classes it standardizes the language used in coaching so no matter what part of the country you teach in everyone is talking the same game. So bite the bullet and take the Bronze course you will not be disappointed.
Q. I never have the feeling at release that my thumb comes out first, and then my fingers follow. It feels like the thumb and the fingers come out together. What do you think might be the problem?
A. This could be one of two things, you could be turning the ball too early in your down swing. Going around the ball or topping the ball does rob you of finger lift. The other is a timing problem, if your swing is not properly aligned with your steps this can cause early turn. This is the most likely culprit. The best cure for this is a lesson. Contact a coach and tell them what your feeling or not feeling and they can look for a timing problem. You can't get proper lift on the ball if your timing is not there.
Q. I have a two-part question. 1. I want to learn tougher tournament conditions, where can I go to practice on these conditions? 2. Does the ball make a difference or is it just a matter of accuracy to be able to score on the tough conditions?
A. The summer is a good time to learn how to bowl on tougher shots, many centers run sports condition leagues in the summer. If you can't find one ask your center if they would condition a couple of lanes for you with a sports condition to practice on. It is not as busy in the summer and if you ask nice they might be willing to put out the sports shot on one or more lanes for you. Another way to talk the center into that is to get some of your friends together that like you also want to learn and have some small pot games or a small singles or doubles league once or twice a week at a designated time on a sports shot. Most bowling centers will do the lanes, as you want them in exchange for your promise of new business. Question 2. The ball does make a difference. On tougher shots you want a ball that is more controllable, this is achieved with less track flair, or a little more surface or both. Accuracy is still the biggest contributing factor but if the ball is hard to control or has little or no mid-lane read you won't be able to overcome that with accuracy alone.
July 1, 2006
Q. I am a little confused now on what different positions for the index finger and pinky fingers do. I always thought that putting the pinky finger so it's touching your ring finger makes the ball hook more than putting the pinky away from the ring finger. But now I have heard people say that putting it away from the ring finger actually makes it hook more. What exactly does moving your index and pinky finger in different locations do?
A. Moving the fingers does make a small amount of difference. Moving the fingers in tighter puts the ball into an earlier roll. This makes the ball hook earlier not necessarily more and depending on conditions it could be less. Spreading the fingers gives the ball more spin thru the heads this saves energy and creates a sharper back end reaction. This means the ball finishes harder and that can look like more hook. This is just another tool you can use to fine-tune your adjustments.
Q. I just heard that the Bowling Proprietors just held a Bowling Expo in Las Vegas. Just what is a Bowling Expo?
A. This is a essentially a convention where the people who make up all the facets of the game of bowling can get together in one place. I attended Bowl Expo the last week of June and was amazed at just how much goes into the running of a bowling center. The week was full of seminars for coaches, ball drillers, and pro shop operators as well as for the proprietor. The Expo itself is were the bowling companies that make and distribute capital equipment, bowling balls, bags and shoes come to show the new latest and greatest introductions. Many of the companies that supply food for the restaurants and soft drinks and libations for the bar come to try and get a share of the bowling center market. Many of the video game makers also come to show off the latest games. There are the makers of all sorts of bowling accessories such as shirts, finger grips, and thumb inserts. Representatives of the USBC also attended. Whatever is needed by a bowling center to be able to open their doors they are there. The reason I went to Bowl Expo this year was because for the first time Bowling Writers Association of America was invited to take part in this unbelievable gathering. It is a great opportunity to meet people involved in all areas of the business and meet past and present celebrities of the game. It was a great time and very informative and I will go back next year.
Q. Where can I look on the Internet for bowlings all time records, also for coaches in my area and for other information on bowling?
A. The web site address is www.bowl.com in there you can find almost anything you ever wanted to know about the game. There is a coaches listing, a section called records and stats and many articles pertaining to the game of bowling. I also recommend a visit to the Bowling Hall of Fame site which has a section called Hometown Hero's. If you are in a local Hall of Fame or have had a 300 game or 800 series your name will be listed. So go there and see your name in print. The site address is www.bowlingmuseum.com.
June 1, 2006
Q. Now that its summer I would like to take some lessons and practice my game. But as with everything else it is getting more and more expensive. Do you have any tips for extending your practice dollar?
A. As I said when I started this Q. and A. I don't know everything but I know enough people to be able to answer most questions. So here we go first my answer, it is summer and therefore many bowling centers run specials for the slower summer months. They don't always advertise them so ask the desk personnel. Some centers limit this to off times so you may have to be willing to come in early on Sat. or Sunday. My favorite tip and this works anytime comes from Ron Degrote one of my favorite coaches from Las Vegas. Ron says double your practice money by shooting at your spares first and the strike ball second. Score does not matter when practicing anyway so beat the house. Getting strikes in practice means you only get one shot that frame instead of two. Practice is for working on timing and muscle memory so why not get twice as much for your money.
Q. I have problem with fast feet. Do you have any of suggestions to make the feet slower?
A. The best method of solving this problem is to move up closer to the foul line by 6 inches or so. Now take your normal approach but don't foul. This makes you take slightly shorter steps and slows down the approach. The reason I like this method of slowing down the feet is that it does not take any conscious effort to slow down. It will be automatic and takes much less time to get your timing. Trying to slow down the feet by thinking about staying slow takes too much away from the rest of the game both physically and mentally.
I have never really got the hang of what ball to use for different lane conditions. I understand the theory behind it. Dry lanes use a ball that rolls long, right? Oily use a ball that will grab, right? But what about the lane condition where the oil is spotty? What ball to use to avoid over/under? I have bowled in tournaments where the shot was so hard. I just couldn't figure it out. While other guys had no trouble at all. This is something I don't understand. My current book average is 207. On a regular house shot, I can play straight up the boards 5 - 10 and move all the way over 20 boards to the right, throw to the gutter and have it come back for a strike. But, on some tournament conditions, the lane has an out of bounds and many times if I am not careful will throw a 3 count because the ball didn't break. What is the correct type of ball to use for this type of condition? Or is it all accuracy?
A. You are basically right on your first two. For tough lanes yes you need accuracy but the ball also can make a difference. For most over under conditions you need a ball that is drilled to be mellow. You want less track flair this is more controllable. But this is not always written in stone. It takes practice and experimenting. I know in a tournament you don't always have time. So take a low flair ball one polished and one with a matte finish. Not sanded hard but about 800 or 1000 matte finish. If you know the shot is going to be tough make sure in your regular balls you also have one with a matte finish. This surface gives you the midlane read that you need to determine line and breakpoint. The matte finish like the low flair helps to mellow out the under/over.
To ask a question write askbob@clearwire.net
May 1, 2006
Q. What does banking the ball off the dry part of the lane mean?
A. When the lanes are oiled they are usually oiled heavier in the center with drier boards to the out side. So when you throw the ball out from the wetter center to the dry boards this would be banking the ball off the dry boards. Think of the bumpers the kids use. Same idea you use the dry boards as bumpers the turn of the ball makes in hook hard when it hits those boards.
Q. What does letting the ball do the work mean?
A. Instead of trying to make the ball go to the pocket you let the ball go to the pocket. You just try to hit your mark and let the ball roll do the work. Don't try to do extra to make it work. No grabbing or hitting up on the ball.
Q. What are the considerations when drilling a ball with a cg-pin distance of 1/2" or less? There is no problem understanding the "usual" 2-4 inch affairs. Does a shorter distance complicate things?
Q. A pin-in ball's c.g. is located very near or on the pin. Wherever you choose your pin placement, the added weight of the c.g. accompanies it. What is meant by the statement, the dynamic's of a 14lb. ball is higher that either 15 or 16 lbs.
R. This does complicate things. Placing the pin anywhere other than close What is meant by the statement, the dynamic's of a 14lb. ball is higher that either 15 or 16 lbs.
A. proximity between fingers and thumb usually forces a very large weight hole to be used to make the ball "legal". For instance, if the pin placement is over the finger holes, a large weight hole near the pin in the positive quadrant must be used. This will have the effect of lowering the differential and decreasing the flare, and so, weakening the ball. It would make sense in most cases to use a pin-out. A pin-out ball is much more versatile, and with it's core mass tilted nearer one side of the ball creating a pin-out and a mass bias, enabling you to fine-tune the ball reaction.
S. What is meant by the statement, the dynamic's of a 14lb. ball is higher that either 15 or 16 lbs.
A. That means the relationship between the core of the ball and the cover is greater in a 14 lb. ball. This can be a good thing if you are after more ball reaction. The same weight blocks are used for all 3 weights so putting an imbalance in a 14 lb. ball can affect the lighter weight more than the heavier weights.
Send questions to askbob@clearwire.net
April 1, 2006
Q. Is it possible to compete at a high level using a 13-pound ball?
A. I am going to give you a no on that one because the weight of that ball can leave too many weight related corner pins. As of this time I think that down as low as 14 is proven to be ok but 13 is very iffy. In some balls you also start getting different weight blocks at 13. 14,15 and 16's however all use the same weight block and the actual dynamics of a 14 is higher than the 15 and 16. If you absolutely can't use at least 14 however you can still get some very good scores with the 13 but I believe you will be at a disadvantage over the long haul.
Q. I've been bowling for about 2 yrs plus. I don't understand why my ball doesn't seem to react at the backend of the lane. No matter what ball I use, the ball simply rolls and rolls. I did not specifically change the drilling to make the ball hook or not hook. Could it be my timing that causes all this? Or maybe my release is not correct? I would like to take this opportunity to clear up a common misconception; you cannot have a ball drilled to make it hook. It will only hook if thrown with the proper wrist action. There is also no such thing as hook in a box. Just because the ads say a ball will hook more or less than another ball this is not always true. It will still go straight if you don't know how to throw the hook ball. If you have the ability to throw the hook ball then balance and cover stock does come into play. So knowing that this is true then this sounds like a release problem. In order to throw a hook ball you have to have wrist turn. If you take a football and throw it underhand and make it spiral, or spin without a wobble this is the same wrist action needed to make the bowling ball hook. So this is a way to begin to learn the proper method of turning the ball. You should also get a coach to help with this if one is available in your area.
Q. I am having trouble with my release I have been pulling the ball. When I try to adjust for that the ball won't hook back. I don't think I am lined up in the wrong place is there something I can work on in practice that could help me?
A. I have a favorite exercise I use when I get in this type of trouble. This is not my own invention I have to say I got it from the great John Jowdy the coach of the pros. He teaches close your eyes in the slide step. When you try this after you get past the fear you will find that you can feel your arm swing as never before. You will almost never pull the ball and you will begin to post at the line. This keeps you from cutting off the arm swing and steering the ball. It is almost like having a coach watching you while you bowl but the coach is you. You learn to bowl by feel. I have used this method when I am having problems trusting myself with great results. I have even done it during league and tournament play. It takes some nerve but I have had two 300's while closing my eyes in the slide step. You will also find your concentration improving because the last thing you see when you close your eyes better be your mark. To adjust to changing conditions using this method you rely on watching the ball as it enters the pins and from what you leave for spares. You won't be able to get your eyes back open until the ball reaches the break point so pay attention to where it hits the pins.
February 28, 2006
Q. My arm swing is a mess. I have lost all trust in my game. How can I go about regaining trust in my arm swing and Game?
A. I have answered this question in other articles but it is a question that deserves a review every so often. When the arm swing gets messed up it is almost always a timing problem. Getting ahead of or behind the arm swing can cause muscling during the swing thus destroying the arm swing. This in turn leads to a lack of trust in your game and also causes us to try and control the direction of the ball. These are the classic symptoms of a slump. First have someone watch you who knows your game or preferably a certified bowling coach. A certified coach is trained to find problems in the approach. If you can't find any help in your area try taking some video of your approach. Play it back in slow motion and see if you can find the problem. If you have some old video when you were bowling well this could help for comparison. If after this things seem all right then try this close your eyes in the slide step just before release. Do this during your next practice session. Look at your mark go to the line as normal but just as you begin the slide close your eyes. This is a great exercise for grooving your swing and release. It relaxes the arm and you can feel your arm swing as never before. It takes a little guts but can be a very rewarding practice tool. If you get enough confidence in this you could even try it during league or tournament. It can be done I have personal experience with this. I have had two 300 games while closing my eyes in the slide. You might be surprised at the results.
Q. Do you have any preference for a certain bowling shoe? I want to get a new pair and need some advice.
A. Yes, I do have a preference I like the Dynoroos Tour Ultra distributed by Dyno-Thane. They are made of Kangaroo leather which is very soft making break in time minimal. They are like wearing your slippers to bowl in. They have a wide foot print and keep you stable during the slide. They come with both full slide soles or you can do slide cleats whichever you prefer. They also come with a variety of heels to further customize your slide. If you like more of a tennis shoe look they also make a sports model that also come with interchangeable slide soles. I have had 2 different pair and they hold up very well. To take a look at them and read about their features go to the web site www.dynothane.com and click on shoes.
Q. I full roll the ball and want to semi-roll. Many bowlers told me that semi-rolling is a better way to roll and will bowling with a wrist support on help me to learn how to semi or 3/4 roll the bowl?
A. The 3/4 rolling ball is by far the best roll for hook and hitting power. With the oil used today the full roller has basically no chance. The ball goes to straight and hits the pins very soft. Now a wristband may or may not be needed to learn the 3/4 roller. The wrist brace alone won't help at all. The 3/4 roller is achieved by throwing the ball with the exact opposite turn of the full roller. The full roller release is done by turning the hand and wrist backward much like a backup ball. The thumb goes from around 9:00 and finishes about 1:00 on the clock. With the 3/4 your thumb stays at 2;00 to 3:00 thru the swing and finishes at about 11:00 on the clock. Both are done very quickly at the release. Both nee to have some slight uplift off the fingers at release. The best way to get the feel of the 3/4 release is to get a football or Nerf football and hold it in the palm of your hand the throw it underhand to someone and make it spiral. This is the exact turn of the wrist required to throw the 3/4. But in order to fully learn you should find a coach in your area to teach it to you. They will make sure you are doing it properly this will save you time and frustration. If you don't know any coaches go to www.bowl.com and look up coaches in your area under instruction. Just look under all in your state not your town. This way all in your state will come up. Hope this helps let me know.
February 1, 2006
Q. I have read that too much forward pitch in the fingers can cause a person to pull the ball. That a more relaxed pitch like reverse is better is that true?
A. More forward pitch does give more lift. the ball does stay on the hand or fingers longer. This would tend to get the ball going in the wrong direction at times. I believe that 1/8 reverse is good and I know several good bowlers who go to 1/4 reverse. This gives a cleaner release, which is good for today's game. You can use different pitches on the different fingers to change the roll a bit, just as would making one finger longer in span than the other. A longer ring finger would give more side turn. Longer middle finger would cause more forward roll.
Q. I am going to buy a new ball. The cost of this ball is $180.00 but I found it on an Internet site for $135.00. Is this exactly the same ball or is it a second. I would like to save $45.00. What would you do?
A. I still believe in going to my local pro shop for a new ball, shoes and all my bowling needs, and this is the reason. Even though the ball you get from the Internet business is the same ball in quality. Are you really saving money, you have to have the ball drilled some Internet sites will do this for you also but it costs extra. If you take the blank ball to your pro shop you have to pay them to drill the ball. It could cost you even more than the $45.00 to have it drilled. But even if you still saved some money you lose the advice, friendship and loyalty of the pro shop operator. He is your connection to all the new developments going on it the game. How best to play lanes where you bowl. Most Pro shop operators are very knowledgeable in many facets of the game and it is best to have them on your side. They have to make a living and the little extra they might charge is a small price to pay. If everyone buy's from the net the Pro shop goes out of business. If that happens then I hope you know what drilling patterns you should use and I hope you know your span and finger pitch's and sizes so you can send them to the Internet site for drilling. Then I hope they get it right because that long distance repair will take time and more money to cover the freight.
Q. My fingers burn after a bowling just 3 games. It is almost like they are going to blister they are very sore to the touch. I have heard that this is not right. Can you tell me what might be wrong?
A. This is a question I did not know the answer to. So I turned to Pam Buckner with Ebonite for an answer. According to Pam they could be several reasons so you will need to get this checked at your Pro Shop. 1. Too long a span. 2. The finger holes or grips could be too tight. 3. If you use grips they might be too hard. 4. You might have too much pitch forward. Remember if you use grips that equates to about ¼ inch of forward pitch. If you add forward pitch to that this can cause finger burning. Also some grips are not just round some also add pitch to the front of the grip so look out for that too. The cures for # 1. Shorten the span. 2. Go one size bigger with the hole or grip. 3. They are many different textures and feels of the grips on the market today try softer grips. 4. Try some reverse pitch to take pressure off the fingers.
January 8, 2006
Q. I have been working on my game and have my average up to 190 but I can't seem to get a mark in the 10th frame when my team is in a tight game. I am a bit of a perfectionist and this problem is making me nuts. Any suggestions would help?
A. I believe you have answered your own question. You say you are a perfectionist that is your biggest problem in a tight situation. When the pressure is on you need to be loose, relaxed have a nice free swing. With a perfectionist frame of mind you will most of the time pull or point the ball. Your mind is telling you throw it perfect. Adjust your thinking to I will just make the best shot I can. Instead of trying to hit an exact mark try adding 2 couple of boards to each side of your mark. Look at that target as a tunnel and throw the ball through the tunnel. Five boards are way easier to hit than one. You can even do that with most spares. This just builds in a little margin for error and takes your mind off being perfect.
Q. My game has been great all season long till now. I don't know what has happened but all of a sudden I can't buy a strike and I can't spare either. I feel like my timing is all right. What do you supposed has happened?
A. Sounds like a mid season slump combined with the holiday blues all mixed in with a lack of confidence. This time of year we have many things going on most of which are more important than bowling. It is also about halfway through a long season. It is easy to lose focus and even though you think your interest is there it may not be. Before you go bowling again try a change in your mental game. Slumps are caused most of the time by a loss of confidence not so much by a new bad habit. Use mental visualization more than usual see yourself making the perfect approach, throwing the perfect ball and getting the carry you deserve. Remember, you haven't forgotten how to bowl. Relax and just let your natural game come back to you. It will and a few good shots will turn your game around just as quick as it went away.
Q. Last week I went to the lanes to bowl my weekly league. I got my bag out of the trunk and what a shock, my ball was cracked like an over ripe melon. The crack ran almost all the way around the ball. I took it to the pro shop and they won't replace the ball. They say in was from improper care. I always keep the ball in the trunk of my car this never happened before. What happened to cause this now?
A. Up to now you have been lucky, your pro shop was right. The worst place you can store your bowling ball is the trunk of your car. It is winter now and in some areas it gets very cold in the winter. If you live in California or Florida its not so cold but is sometimes hot. Either extreme is not good for a bowling ball. Even worse is the fluctuation of temperature. The expansion and contraction of the material can cause a ball to crack in time. Keep them in your house or rent a locker and keep the ball at the lanes.
Q. I watched a resent PBA finals on television and some of the scores these pro's shot were not any better than I see in the scratch leagues in my home house. It seems as though any scratch bowler could be a pro. Am I missing something?
A. We just had the pro tour stop at the lanes I bowl in Lava Lanes in Medford, or. I got the opportunity to bowl with them in a special pro am event that is held at Lava. We get the same condition to bowl on as they shoot on all week. Let me tell you the shot that was put up on the lanes at this tournament was extremely difficult 43 feet of oil. The outside boards were flooded. This gave you about 2 boards of area and speed was critical. All of the amateurs the struggled, we were lucky to hit the pocket twice in a row and spares weren't easy. But the pro's bowling with us made this look like our regular league shot. Trust me the pro's on the exempt tour are world class they do things with a bowling ball the rest of us can only dream about. We have bowlers in our scratch league that average 220+ the pro's were averaging 220+ on what I would call a nearly impossible shot. This is what you can't see on TV the actual playing condition. The best league bowler would be fortunate to average 190 they truly are the best of the best.
December 1, 2005
Q. In our league last league session a member of the opposing team rolled his first shot. The ball went into the gutter but a spectator had noticed that there was a pin missing from the rack. The eight pin was not there. The bowler was allowed to take another shot. The ball was thrown into the gutter no pins were hit therefore nothing was affected buy the missing pin. That does not seem to me to be the correct ruling. Please what is the rule?
A. Common sense would tell you that if a pin was missing from the rack the delivery would not count. The reasoning behind this is that had the bowler gotten a strike and the missing pin was noticed you would have declared a dead ball and made the bowler do the frame over. The result of the shot does not matter it is a dead ball. Just to make sure of my reasoning I went to the USBC rules online and under Dead Ball: Rule 8 states, a ball shall be dead if any of the following occur: After a delivery, attention is immediately called to the fact that one or more pins were missing. That is the first listed rule there are more but this one settles the question.
Q. I bowl in two scratch leagues each week and I almost always score well the first game. In the 2nd game I start leaving more ten pins. When I move to the right I leave the 4 pin. Then sometimes in the 3rd game I start leaving the 2-4-5 or worse. What is going on and what can I do to fix this reaction?
A. Because of the very reactive covers on today's bowling balls the bowling centers have had to add more oil to the lanes. This is to lessen damage and also to give the bowlers a playable condition. To keep the balls from hooking too much too soon. When you bowl the first game the back ends are dry and the ball finishes thru the pocket giving the best carry. By the 2nd game oil carry down comes into play. The bowling balls get oil on them and that oil begins to transfer onto the dryer part of the lane. This means the ball will not finish into the pins as well the result is more corner pins. By the 3rd game two things begin to happen. More oil is transferred onto the dry portion of the lane and the heads or front part of the lane begins to lose oil or dry out. This causes the ball to lose energy faster and with the back ends having more oil the ball hooks even less. You will have to experiment to find the best solution for you. For the 2nd game try moving up on the approach about 6 inches this will slow you and the ball down slightly. Be sure and lessen your turn or hand action a small amount also. You want the ball to just roll up in the back a little more the same turn will make it jump high. For the 3rd. game you will have to move deeper on the lane maybe as much as 4 or 5 boards to the left. This will help you to find head oil you also have to move your spot in 2 or 3 boards. To help the ball finish you might have to change to a ball that is more aggressive. Give this a try and see if it helps.
Lat article I mentioned that I would keep you informed on how to come back from a forced medical leave. I thought I was going to be out for 2 to 3 months but I was surprised by my Dr. when he said I could start back after just 1 month. Since I was not out as long I did not have to break back in as slowly as I would have. I did however after finding out I could return to bowling went to the local lanes and bowled 3 games just to loosen up before jumping into league. I started with my spare ball, which is 13 lbs. So as not to hurt myself I did this for a game then went up to 14 lbs. for a game. Then up to my 15 lb. Ball for the 3rd game. I did not try to score I just wanted to get back the feel. Then I went to bowl league the next night. If your time off is more than this you will need to build up more slowly. I still am having trouble bowling more that 3 games an illness takes a lot out of you. I am starting back into tournaments and tried after just a week to bowl a 5 game set. If you try that be prepared to fail. I lost my legs after 3 games and the last 2 weren't pretty. You will find though that you gain strength every day. This week I am going to try an 8 game tournament. I will let you know next month.
Send your questions to my NEW e-mail address askbob@clearwire.net
November 11, 2005
Q. I bowl in a classic league and I like to think I know something about lane conditions. Every week this year our shot has been different. I ask the management and they say they are doing the lanes the same every week. They can't figure out why the shot is changing. Do you have any idea about what is happening?
A. This is not a new thing I even have a similar thing going on where I bowl. You have to remember the lane machine is just that a machine. Machines don't always do the exact same thing each time. The machines today also strip the lanes and different batches of cleaning solution could take off more or less oil from batch to batch. This can lead to lanes that hook more or less in the backend depending on how much oil the stripper is taking off. If the machine has not been cleaned or properly maintained this could lead to some problems. The mechanic may not even know it needs some work and that is something that should be checked out. Diplomatically ask if the lane machine has been checked recently. Also it is now becoming winter and with changes in the weather lanes change. More humidity, colder, then the heat is turned on and there are different airflows. All of these factors can come into play. So you see it is not as easy to keep lane conditions the same from week to week as you might think. The best way to handle this is first to ask management if they have noticed a difference. Don't get mad stay calm. If it continues use it to your advantage be prepared with different equipment and learn from it. It's not a bad thing to have to learn various shots it will make you a better player. Better to be known as versatile that to be known as a complainer.
Q. I am going to my first High Roller tournament in November. I have bowled in many tournaments but most of them with more games of qualifying. What do you think my mindset should be in this kind of format?
A. In the senior High Roller format you have 2 game sweepers you have 3 game sweepers. There is a four game qualifier and then the rest of the tournament is single game elimination. You have to have more of a gunslinger attitude. Your decisions have to be quicker. Your moves on the lanes faster. You must believe in your game and believe in yourself. When you think a move is in order, make the move there is no second chance, no time to waste. The best practice for this is pot games if you can find them or if you play match play in leagues try to push yourself to take those more seriously. Always go for the win there is no second in single game elimination.
Editorial: Each article for a few months I am going to write about my recovery from an illness that has curtailed my own bowling career, on Oct. 29th I had to have a Pace Maker put in to correct sick sinus syndrome. This was not planned. It happened while on a long weekend out of town in Reno, Nv. After the procedure I was told no work or bowling for 2 to 3 months. I thought this would be a good time to address from experience, coming back to the game from an illness or injury. Because of this event I must cancel my trip to the Thanksgiving High Roller in Las Vegas. First and foremost listen to you doctor do not go back until he or she tells you it is ok. Your health comes first bowling will still be there when you are ready. Rushing back in many cases will lead to bad habits formed by trying to be careful. So part one for me is rest, heal and checkups with the Dr. If I can start before the next article I will let you know my progress. Maybe that will help you learn a regimen for a successful comeback. PS send lots of questions I answer them all by e-mail and you can help keep down the boredom of having to stay home with nothing to do.
To ask a question please e-mail me at my new address askbob@clearwire.net
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