Bo-Fish Bowling News: the Positive Source for Bowling Worldwide

January 25, 2005
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October 27, 2004
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September 5, 2004

Q. When shooting spares to the left I line up a target ten boards right of the target and my curve goes right in. But when I try this shooting right I always-go right of the target. I have found that when shooting at a ten pin for instance if I aim right at the pin, my ball starts out right and curves back to the target. If I aim right it goes straight to the gutter. Is this some kind of optical illusion?

A. The reason the ball goes right on you when shooting 10 pins is because of the way lanes are oiled today the center of the lane has the most oil. Many times the ball will actually back up through the heavy concentration of oil. On most house shots you want to move as far left as you can and throw over the middle arrow or 20 board. You go straight at the 10 pin at most lanes this will work. To get other right side spares you can make adjustments with your feet. This is for right handed bowlers for left handed bowlers this may work for you also just move right with your feet.

Q. My teammates have been trying to help me with my game. They tell me I am bending to far forward at the foul line. I am just trying to get low, as I have read in magazines. But since starting this, my ball does not seem to hit with any authority. Could this be the problem after all?

A. Staying low at the foul line is a good thing but not by bending at the waist. When you see this in magazine articles they mean bend your knees. Try to keep your head no further forward than your knees. When the head goes beyond the knees leverage is lost and you ball reaction will suffer.

Q. During league last week I strained tendons in my hand. It feels like the ring finger mostly. I know I should rest it but our team is in first place and I don't want to let them down. Is there a way to help tendons heal quickly or would a wrist device help?

A. I am not a Dr. but as far as I know there is no quick way to help strained tendons. Ice, heat and rest are all I know that you can do. I also know that after you get them healed or at least the soreness gone. You might want to try to strengthen the muscles around the tendons with so weight training. This will go a long ways toward keeping strains at bay. You need to seek advice from an expert for this condition. As for a temporary measure so that you can keep bowling. Wrist devices are meant for the weak wrist not for hand tendons they probably won't help. You can try taping your little finger tight to your ring finger. The little finger tendon helps to support the ring finger tendon and you may be able to bowl somewhat pain free. But try it with some care and if there is any doubt see a doctor or get to a sports medicine clinic. Make sure you are not going to cause further harm to yourself by continuing.

To ask a question write this publication or email askbob@clearwire.net. I answer all

A. My New Years resolution for my game will be to get some video lessons, to practice more and especially to concentrate harder when shooting at spares. These resolutions are good for all of my readers out there. None of us take enough lessons; bowlers for some unknown reason bowlers seem to think they don't need lessons. Worse yet the better a bowler becomes the less lessons they take. We should know by now that this game is not that easy and none of us is perfect. Next with the advent of easier lane conditions bowlers are practicing less. If we aren't scoring we just buy a new ball. We might not need a new ball we might just need to learn to repeat shots. Practice makes perfect. One of my most asked questions is how can I improve my average? Well the lessons and practice is a good start but the quickest way to a higher average is to work harder on your spare making. Making just one more spare a game works out to a ten-pin jump in average. Try these resolutions this year and your average has to improve.

Q. I have been struggling with my accuracy lately, one of my teammates said I am chicken winging the ball. I have heard this term before but I have no idea what it means. Can you give me an explanation and a cure?

A. Chicken winging means your elbow is flying out on your downswing. It is caused by turning the ball to early in the down swing. This can be a timing thing or a matter of trying too hard to increase turn on the ball. Chicken winging causes under/over problems and accuracy suffers. When you are topping the ball and you throw it out it doesn't hook because you have no leverage. Then you try to adjust by moving out and you roll over the ball, it hooks immediately and goes high. Sometimes by accident you release the ball in just the right spot and it looks good. You think I've got it, and it starts all over again. It feels like bad timing or that your not lined up in the right place. You might think that you're using the wrong ball. The fix is to stay behind the ball longer. There are several ways to accomplish this. Leading or thinking aim with the ring finger on the down swing is the best way.

Q. I am particularly interested in your article concerning what you did about your sore wrist. I used to slow hook and crank the ball by cocking my wrist upward and inward and one night about 3 years ago I got a sharp pain on the inside of my wrist that has never really gone away. Obviously, I did some permanent damage in there and I, too, have tried raps and different types of wrist supports and the only one that seems to help a little is the "straight" good old fashioned Robby. However, I still ice it every night after bowling and there is still some pain. I also used to have a lot of reverse pitch in the thumbhole and a stretched span, but I have now shortened the span and changed the pitch to 0-0 and I have really relaxed my hand, but the pain never really goes away. Is this the same area of the wrist where you had pain? I am thinking about drilling a hole for my pinky to see if that helps.

A. Yes, that is exactly the same place my wrist was and is sore. It probably won't ever clear up completely. You can get it to calm down though. The Robby's is a good idea and the other thing I did is to drill the pinky hole. It helped the most. Even then I still get flair ups once and awhile. I do the same thing as you Ice till it gets better then heat. Once I get the inflammation down it stays good for quite a long time. Also going down in ball weight helps. I went down to 15 from 16. Before I put the pinky finger in I could barely bowl 3 games. Now I can bowl all I want but the soreness is still there. It is much more tolerable now than it was seven years ago. Recommendation try the pinky finger you will love the feel and control you gain.

Q. The PBA exempt tour is part way thru the first year. What do you think of it so far?

A. I like the way the tour has gone so far. It creates more excitement every day of the tournament. I did wonder about beginning with match play right from the start with no actual qualifier. I felt that in this format there is more emphasis on luck of the draw. I see now that the PBA is going to move away from all match play. As of the 1st of the year the 64 will now start out with a 14 game qualifier to pare the field down to 32. Then the 32 will go into match play. I believe this will make the tournament more of a test of skill.

A. I have received this question from a number of readers in the past few months. The PBA just held a tournament in our town and I got the chance to go to the top for an answer. I discussed this with Chris Peters the owner of the PBA. Chris told me they would love to expand the field and it is not out of the question in the future. It will depend on getting more sponsors. Mr. Peters said ideally they would like to pay a much higher first place as well as more spots. The feeling is however that the entire field should get a check each week. So until such time as more money becomes available the field will have to stay at 64.

Q. I've been bowling in league for the past 4 years after not bowling for 40 years. I have been using a 14lb ball but at times find it tiring by the 3rd game. I am in my 60's and carry a 180 average. I've been told by a younger, better bowler to get myself a 13lb ball as he is using. I thought I might get more rev's for one thing, and would not find the ball as tiring. I was always under the impression that a lighter ball would not drive the pins as a heavier ball. But watching this young fellow bowl, that is not the case. What are your feelings on this?

A. If you are tiring out then the drop to 13 will help. As for carry 13 might leave you some weight related spares. But the new balls hit so hard that weight is not as important as it once was. My take on this is you can't score if you can't get the ball in the pocket. So if you have to go lighter to hit the pocket so be it. Having more control should make up for the lighter weight.

I would like to welcome new readers in Bowl Magazine from Largo, Md This is a publication that covers the Nations Capital area. To ask a question send to askbob@clearwire.net. I answer all questions asked by e-mail and some may appear in the column.

Q. I am a PBA regional member but I would like to bowl in a High Roller event sometime. I have heard that the High Roller has allowed in PBA members to bowl in some events in the past. Do you know if they have any open events planned for the future?

A. Your in luck, There is an upcoming High Roller tournament that is open to all players including PBA members with one exception. The PBA exempt players and any player who has won a PBA national title in the last year cannot bowl. Everyone else, man or women can bowl. This tournament is called the "A" game and will be held at Sam's Town in Las Vegas from January 31 to February 4th 2005. This is just before the famous Super Bowl High Roller begins.

The "A" game has an estimated 1st place prize of $60,000 and $ 40,000 for 2nd. All bowlers will bowl at least 10 games in the tournament. The entry fee is $1000.00 this includes a qualifying round plus one qualifying re-entry if needed and an entry into a $50,000 sweeper. Qualifying will be split into 3 age divisions to give all ages a chance. The age groups are 39 and under, 40 to 49, & 50 and over. For all of the details call toll free 1-800-257-6179 or visit the High Roller web site you can print the entry forms directly from the site at www.high-roller.com. Be sure and put the dash between high and roller or you will get a different site. So come on Pros, if you have felt left out your, not any more. Come see how you stack up against the country's best amateurs.

Q. I bowl in a house this season that has what I call an extreme over-wall. The straight players are shooting lights out numbers but any of us who turn the ball have almost no chance in comparison. Get the ball out past 12 and the ball hooks thru the nose immediately. Set the ball in the oil and it goes 60 feet. This shot is driving me nuts; do you have any ideas about what I can do?

A. We had a house here last year with almost that exact shot. I drilled up a Thing Returns from Dyno-Thane. This ball has a pearl reactive cover the ball had a 1-inch pin or pin in. I left it polished the box finish. I put the pin under the ring finger the cg was directly under the pin. This ball worked very well on the over blocked shot. This ball with this drilling is very mellow and has to have back-ends to carry. With this ball you can move into the dry boards and it won't overreact. If you pull it hits the oil wall and turns over once at the pocket. Finding a pin in ball these days is the hard part. This was the only luck I had in shooting the over blocked shot. Another ball that may work would be Roto Grip Ultra Sonic. Remember the key is to find a pin in ball. You will have to ask for it, they don't make many pin in balls these days.

Q. I am a right-handed bowler but I am using a ball that was drilled for a friend of mine who is left-handed. Is this ok or should I have the ball plugged and drilled for me, or should I get a new ball?

A. Using a ball drilled for the wrong hand is not a good idea. It makes the middle finger span too long and the ring finger span too short. There could also be a problem with the pitches of the thumb that can cause you problems with release. I would get the ball plugged and drilled to fit your hand, you can get a new one if you want but that's not necessary.

Q. Is it true, that when consistent in releasing the ball in one spot on the lane that the oil is worn off, and the lanes change, making me change the curve I throw?

A. It is true as we throw the ball at the same spot the oil pattern will change. The bowling ball picks up oil from the lane and the lane will dry out. You don't have to change your curve; you have to change the spot you are aiming for. You are looking for more oil in the front part of the lane or head area. You usually have to move closer to the middle of the lane. If you are aiming at 2nd arrow you might have to go between the 2nd and 3rd arrow. You may even have to move deeper than that as the night goes on.

Q. Is it true that I should concentrate on posture, form, and release rather than concentrate on arrows?

A. Yes and no. You have to hit mark or arrow. But if your form or timing is off you will have trouble hitting your mark. So my suggestion here is too get a coach and get some lessons. Just to make sure you are getting to the line with proper timing and balance. This will increase your consistency and your leverage on the ball. Many bowlers tell me that they can't afford lessons. You can't afford not too get lessons if you want to improve your game. A series of lessons in most instances will cost you less than a new ball, and lessons will last much longer.

Q. When I bowl in tournaments I seem to have too much going on in my head. I am thinking about where to stand what mark to hit. I want to stay slow but I also want my release to be firm and so on. How can I focus better?

A. This is a common problem with a fairly simple answer. You know how to bowl and all of these things you are thinking about you have practiced. When you get into the tournament you need to put on the cruise control. Think of all the things you need or want to do back in the settee area. When you get on the approach just look at your mark and go. When writing this article on my computer I have to think about my answer and put it into words on the screen. When I get it done the next move is to send it to the printer. There is no more thinking involved that's been done, all that's left is hit the print key. When you get on the approach hit the print key.

Q. My question for you is I just bowled my first 700 series on Friday so where do I go from here?

A. Congratulations, It's a great experience to be successful in anything we like to do. The first 700 series is the beginning of even more great things to experience in this sport. Now you still want to try for that 300 game and after that 750, 775 or even 800.

I am going to let you in on something that happened to me. I always thought that if I could get an 800 and maybe sometime a 300 that I would then quit the game. There would be no reason to continue because I had done it all. Well I was lucky enough to do this I had an 800 in 1965. I had my first 300 in 1971. It was such a great feeling a natural high that I wanted to feel it again. So here I am still bowling after 50 years and still going after that natural high. 2 Years ago I had back-to-back 300 games in league. It was better than my first 300. 2 weeks ago I had my 12th 800 series it still feels as good as the first. So keep trying to improve and maybe you might be one of our 900 series bowlers someday. Think how great that would be

Q. I have searched high and low for an answer to a question posed to a group forum and nobody seems to know the answer, so I was hoping you could shed some light on it. Why is 200 the magic number in regards to working out bowling averages?

A. Great question, ever since I can remember and I have bowled for 50 years 200 was always considered to be scratch or par if you will. So then handicaps were always figured from that. In the 40's 50's and 60's there were very few people who could average 200 and I presume this was the reasoning. Now with the technological advances in the game 220 is closer to scratch. Because of this you now see many leagues and tournaments handicapping from 220.

Q. Last article I told about Maxim from Russia who needed a reactive ball. I asked for help to get him one. Stan Smith from Canada got contacted Maxim and offered him a ball for free, drilling and all. It is just unfortunate that not all the world is as well off as we in the US and Canada. Maxim let us know that because of the $90.00 freight charge he could still not afford the ball. He works steady and is very busy but money is still in very short supply in that country. He is hoping to be able to afford the ball after the first of next year. This was a reminder to me what Thanksgiving is all about. I am giving thanks this year for being lucky enough to be able to participate when I want with the equipment I want, anytime I want in our great sport. Thanks to all of you who responded to my call for help. Have a happy Thanksgiving. Bob Korth

Q. About 3 years ago I took some lessons from you. At that time you showed me some thumb tape that was thick and fuzzy. I have just bought a new ball and would like to get some of that tape. Can you still get it for me?

A. Yes, that would be thumb carpets. Thumb carpets better known as Magic Carpet gives a great feel in the thumbhole, it snugs around the thumb but allows for a quick and easy release. The fibers of the carpet allow airflow around them and this way there is no suction. No suction means the thumb swells less this reduces the amount of tape you will use. Using less tape helps to defray the cost of the carpets. Getting a better feel of the ball means more consistency in your shots and higher scores. The thumb carpet takes the place of about 3 pieces of white tape. WARNING! Once you use them you will be hooked and need them all the time. They are as addictive as coffee, now that you have been warned if you would like to try them just send me a self stamped, self addressed envelope a regular size 10 will work. The cost is $2.00 ea. A minimum order of 10 is required. Send $20.00 to Bob Korth 750 Hemlock Ave. Central Point, Or. 97502 If you would like more that 10 then contact me for special pricing at askbob@clearwire.net.

Q. I started bowling many years ago. I started with a very bad habit. I have a tendency to chase the ball. The ball is ahead of my feet in the swing. I had a coach who told me to delay the swing until my 3rd step. Do you agree with this method?

A. I want you to know that without seeing you bowl there is some guesswork to this answer. I don't think that waiting to the 3rd step would be a wise idea.

This sounds like making a mistake to correct a mistake. You do need to use up some extra time in the push away to regain timing. I think the best way to do this is to start the ball waist high or so. Push the ball up and out with the first step in a four step approach, on the second step with a 4 and ½ or 5 step approach. Push the ball up about 2 to 3 inches and push out with your non-bowling hand as far as it will go before dropping away. This should take up the needed time to stay in time with the swing and also allow for a nice free no muscle swing. If this doesn't seem to do the trick, but it should then seek out a USA coach in your area for added help.

Q. I have been searching for a new ball. I see on all the boxes 3 or 4 and even 5 ounces of top weight. I don't understand what this means. The store I was at was no help with this question. What should I be looking for?

A. You really should not have to worry about this. Please go to a pro shop in your area and not to a sporting goods store or sports department of a discount chain. They do not have the expertise needed to measure and drill correctly. The bowling pro shop deals with just the sport of bowling and can be trusted. To answer your question top weight is put it the ball to compensate for the weight taken out of the ball when drilling the thumb and fingers. A ball with any of the weights you mentioned will be fine in most cases. ABC rules allow for up to 3 ounces of top weight to be left in the ball after drilling. So the ball starting with 3 to 5 ounces should still be under the allotted 3 ounces after the holes are drilled. If there is a question a pro shop will weigh out the ball for you and make sure it is ABC legal.

Q. I am a new bowler from Russia. Bowling is very new to our city, only one bowling center ( AMF 6 lanes ) no pro shop. We have only house balls available; I started 2 months ago with a 12-pound ball. I only know how to throw the ball straight I have read articles on how to throw a hook. I also read that men should throw a 14 to 16 pound ball. So I have tried to use a heavier ball but when I try to hook the ball my wrist gets sore and the ball still won't hook. My question is should I go up in weight and can I get a house ball to hook or do I need a reactive ball?

A. House balls are not meant to hook you will need to get a reactive ball. You should get at least a 14-pound ball. This was my short answer to this new bowler from Russia. In further correspondence I found out that he has very little money and can't afford to get a ball and he also would have no place to get it fitted for him. He also can't get it drilled. So I had him send me a copy of his hand, this has been e-mailed to me. I have his address in Russia. I do not run or own a pro shop so I can't help him any further. If any of you who read my articles have a pro shop and can help this new bowler who needs a fitted ball. I can send you the picture of his hand and his address. Maybe with this you can help out a new bowler. Drilling a ball with just the full-scale picture of his the hand would be a challenge but an interesting one. He does have the money for freight, which is about $60.00, and you could get this from him. He does not have much more for a ball. If you are interested in helping a new bowler from an impoverished country let me know and I will send his information to you. Thanks in advance for your help. I will update this in a later article if we get a response.

Q. I have seen advertisements for interchangeable thumbs. Have you tried them? What do you think about them?

A. I have not tried them at this time. I am going to try one soon. I have a ball being drilled at this time with an interchangeable thumb made by Tom's Thumb. I was sent some by them to try and review. I will let you know shortly the results. I think it is a great idea in theory. In the case of Tom's Thumb you buy 3 sizes of thumb inserts, which are guaranteed for life. They come in both round and oval. Then each time you get a new ball you just buy the outer sleeve that the thumb insert fits into. The sleeve costs about the same as any thumb solid. So your original investment is not much more than any other thumb slug. You then interchange the worked out inserts into the sleeve. For more information let me know and I will put you in contact with them.

Q. Lately I have had a problem missing my mark to the left. I know what the problem is squeezing the ball. I know this because my hand is curled into a fist at the top of the follow thru. Last week during practice I remembered something Randy Peterson said about Pete Weber on a telecast. That his hand was open during his follow thru which prevents tugging the ball. Is there anything I can do to force this kind of follow thru or is it just a matter of practice?

A. You have hit the nail on the head. Habit is the best thing for this. Remember what you want to do at the beginning of your approach then do it. The more you do it the easier it will get. It is muscle memory.

Q. I recently drilled a ball to go long and get the most back end reaction. However the man I drilled it for cannot get the ball to break at the backend. Ball starts to turn, but flattens out. Would a leverage hole placed 1" on the midline 1" passed the VAL help the ball with more flare and get it to break on the backend?

A. This is a friction problem. The answer is getting the ball to go down the lane and retaining the energy for the back end. On drier conditions this is sometimes difficult. This ball should be used on heavier oil. Drilling a weight hole near the axis will cause the ball to flare more. Flare will cause more friction and an earlier roll. The ball will roll out quicker. Shine the ball for more length. More speed and side roll would also help get the ball farther down the lane. Another remedy would be to select a ball with lower potential flare (lower differential-higher R.G.) using a go-long drill pattern.

Q. My friend and I are on a bowling league and I would like to no how to improve our score. We bowl around 80 -95 and need tips on how to get a good spin?

A. It is great that you guys/gals are in a league. In order to improve you need to find out from your bowling center or pro shop if someone in your area is offering lessons. Now is the best time to learn the correct way to bowl and get spin. But as in other sports you need to be shown the right way. Just reading about it won't do it. A good coach will teach you a smooth approach, how to hook the ball and most of all a spare system. At your average level the fastest way to improve is by getting more spares. After your lessons be sure and get in as much practice as you can. Proper muscle memory is key to good scores. Good luck at the game and keep me posted as to your progress.

A. Hold the ball higher in your stance. If you are below the waist bring the ball up to waist high. If you are waist high now bring the ball up to chest high. Then on you first step (4 step approach) or second step (5 step approach) push the ball out with the left hand and let it fall into the swing. The extra swing length will increase the ball speed naturally.

Q. I recently bowled in the ABC tournament in Reno and got myself taped and found out that during my back swing my wrist breaks. Therefore when I release the ball I don't get the needed lift on the ball to carry out those pesky ten pins. I want to bowl in local scratch tournaments but bad carry costs me big. The ball I throw is a full roller but when I need to get inside to carry in the house that I currently bowl in I leave way too many flat ten pins. What kind of wristband or tip would you suggest to get that extra hit on the bowling ball?

A. Try the pro release. This is a very good and adjustable wristband. Here is another trick to increase revs trigger the ball at release. This means just as you are about to throw the ball pull your fingers in toward the palm. Kind of like pulling the trigger on a gun, this will increase revs without a wristband. It can also be done with the wristband. Something else to think about is to get some lessons and learn to throw a 3/4 roller. This roll has way more power than a full roller. The full roller is the weakest rolling ball. Bowlers using the full roller have to survive on accuracy.

Q. I am on a five-man team with all five above a duce average, last year. We have a new owner with a new shot. The oil is flat across the lane. Everyone is throwing strikes during practice. When the scoring starts no one is getting any strikes. If you get close on one frame the next time on this lane it might be a washout not close. The next time up you hit the two pin. No one on my team shot above five hundred. I know, learn to bowl. What would you do if you ran into this condition?

A. I will not give you a hard time such as learn to bowl. Flat oil is the toughest shot to score on. Getting high scores on flat oil is very difficult. This is not all bad just be aware in your mind that if you score bad it is not all your fault. If you score well it is because you played very well that night. You may not average as much as you are used to. However when you go to another bowl for a tournament you will probably think the lanes are walled even if they aren't. You have learned something about flat oil; you noticed that during warm-ups everyone was striking. Warm-ups are very relaxed there is no pressure to strike. When the lights come on nothing works because now there are consequences. This is a mental thing that you can use to your advantage. Just relax try your best to hit your target. Try to keep strike out of your mind. You know you can strike when it doesn't mean anything stay relaxed and make good shots and above all pick up your spares and you will be the best in your league. Then when you find a tournament or place with some area you will be awesome.

I did bowl on this condition this summer in a summer league I was thirty pins under my normal league average. It is not easy to have a good time on this kind of condition. You have to decide to learn something. I had nights I thought I forgot how to bowl. I had thoughts of quitting until I realized I would be admitting defeat. I also had some good nights that on a normal house shot would have been bad nights. These nights I thought I was the KING. Best bowler in the house. You can only do the best you can no matter what. I just returned from the August Senior High Roller many bowlers that where there thought the lanes were tough. I thought the lanes were easy. This was because they were easy compared to what I had been on all summer. I now have to admit that this league was good for me. After all the lows and a few highs it strengthened my metal game and increased my accuracy.

Q. I have been told that I throw the ball to hard. I try to slow down the speed but I lose my accuracy. So I start throwing hard again. How can I slow down and not lose my accuracy?

A. Your problem is that when you slow down it changes the timing that you are used to. You have to make some changes in the push away and in the speed of your arm swing to get it together with your feet. There is a way to get the feel of it. Try moving up closer to the foul line on the approach. Maybe 6 inches or so, you might even be able to move up a foot. But I would start with 6 inches closer. Then take your approach and don't foul. This shortens up your steps and makes you slow down your arm swing. This will in turn slow down the ball. Do it in practice first and by the way it will take some extra practice to get comfortable. If you are still having trouble ask at the center you bowl at for a coach who might be able to watch you and give you some pointers.

Q. It seems to me that the shot has changed over the years. When conditions were tough and hitting the mark was critical I could do it. Lately though I seem to be lax, just hitting areas instead of marks. I feel many of my problems are also stemming from this. Overturning the ball, inconsistency in my deliveries. Would you agree with me and if so how can I start to fix the problem?

A. You have hit the nail on the head. The worst thing about the easy house shots is our game gets lazy. We get away with lots of bad shots so the need to concentrate is not as important. We have no need to practice as much. When things start to go bad we buy hook in a box.

Solution, Ask the lanes where you bowl to set up a sport shot for you to practice on. Some places will do that. If they won't or can't. Then when you practice don't play where the shot is. Play another line or area of the lane. If the shot is on the 10 to 12 board play the 15 or 18 board or even the 20, or go out to the five board. Figure out a way to hit the pocket from there. It won't be a very good shot but try to hit the pocket as much as possible from this non-line. Forget about the score that doesn't matter. All you are working on is shot making. This should sharpen your game.

I would like to thank The Bowling News of Christiansburg, Va. for picking up my article this quality bowling newspaper has as many as 300,000 readers on the East Coast. I feel honored that the editor liked it enough to include it. I hope you new readers enjoy this new feature to your paper. If you want to ask a question please email askbob@clearwire.net. I answer all questions personally even if they don't make it into the paper.

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