Bo-Fish Bowling News the Positive Source for Bowling Worldwide

Ask Bob by Bob Korth

Article Archive #2

August 22, 2004

Q. I have been bowling for a few years now but have no idea what drilling pattern I should have. I have had balls that hooked very well and others did nothing. Every time I take a new ball to get drilled they always seem to drill it different every time. (Pin under finger, pin above finger, and pin side of finger) I take my old balls that hooked good and show them those to drillers but they always seem to drill different than set ups I have had. My question is do you know a web site I could go to understand more about pap, cg? And all the technical understandings, I know what all these abbreviations stand for but have no idea how to tell drillers how to drill my ball for my style of bowling. I have no idea if I am considered a stroker, cranker or whatever. Any help would be appreciated, tired of buying good quality balls and have drillers mess them up by drilling to the way they apparently bowl and we know everyone has their own unique style. What works for one might not work for someone else? Any help would be appreciated.

A. I am sorry that is happening to you. Sometimes it is better to have your own ideas about what you want when you go in. Then they have to drill it the way you want not the way they want. Go to the Ebonite web site for some good info. www.ebonite.com look under tech tips on the opening page. Also don't lose faith try some other pro shops in your area if you have them. You should be able to find someone who will be able to watch you bowl and suggest a ball and a drilling that will work. You also have to remember that the weight block placement only accounts for a small amount of reaction. Static weights count even less. The biggest reaction change will be in the ball surface. A polished ball that is not reacting the way you want might if you dull it a little. Or it might be the opposite. Sometimes you need to sand with 600 or 800 grit and then polish. Each of these surfaces will cause the ball to change reaction a bunch. That's why it is best to find someone you trust in your area to talk to.

Q. I broke my wrist as a kid and I'm wondering if it can have an effect on my bowling now. I'm now 28 and bowl in about 2 leagues a week. I have one of those wrist braces but seem to have problems repeating shots. I'm wondering if my weak wrist has something to do with my inconsistency. I find that if I "roll" the ball instead of trying to hook it, I do get a better reaction, sometimes. I want to be able to use a variety of shots during league but that just gets me into trouble. I carry a 178 average but its mostly ups and downs and no really big games. I want to be able to improve my game but I worry that my wrist may be a cause of my problems of late does any of this make sense?

A. I don't think your wrist is the cause of the problem. I am more inclined to think that you just need to get to a coach. Have the coach watch you and make suggestions to help with your problem. Having trouble repeating shots is usually a problem with timing. If you are early or late getting to the foul line it is impossible to repeat shots. So try some lessons and I believe that will help you the most. At your average level lessons can get you over the hump. With some practice then you should be able to reach 190 or more. Grill your coach for all the info about the game, things like playing lanes the mental game and don't forget a good spare system.

Q. Could you explain to me what forward pitch, and reverse pitch means in the thumbhole. I read that it might be a good idea to try a little forward pitch in the thumbhole for a better release, would this mean the angle the thumbhole is drilled?

A. Yes this means the thumb pitch would be going toward the fingers (forward). Reverse pitch is going back away from the fingers. You would not use much forward pitch. This advice also depends on the span. I use 1/8 forward myself. I have a very short span. I changed to the forward pitch on the advice of Ron Hoppe he is an expert at fitting a ball. You should always check with an expert before making a major grip change. I used to use 1/4 reverse and this caused me to squeeze the ball to hang on. With forward pitch I can use a relaxed grip without the squeeze.

Q. I am struggling with imparting revs on my ball. I have a 15lb ball and try to throw a gradual hook. In my effort to impart revs, I end up throwing my ball between 16 -18 MPH. I have fingertip grips but it always feels like I'm going to drop the ball on the downswing. I know part of the problem is I grip with the thumb on the downswing. Could the other part be that the ball is too heavy for me? With my build, 15 lbs shouldn't be a problem but you never know. I used to throw 12 and 13 lbs house balls before buying my own ball.

A. This sounds more like the ball does not fit you quite right. If the thumbhole is too loose you could get the feeling of dropping the ball and that would cause you to grip it hard in the downswing. This is not something you want to keep doing. So first take the ball in and have it checked for fit at your pro shop. If you don't want to take it where you had it drilled go somewhere else for a second opinion. All shops will check it for free and make recommendations. You may only need to put some tape in the thumbhole to fix the problem. After having the grip checked and it is right. Then ask them for the name of a coach they would recommend for lessons. Bad timing can also cause you to lose the ball. A series of five or six lessons for our sport is a real bargain. Most of the time it will cost less than a new ball and they last a lifetime. Lessons are a good idea for everyone at all levels of the game. Eighteen is not too fast by the way. That is a very good speed for our game. So check out these other things first.

To ask a question please email askbob@clearwire.net

August 1, 2004

Q. Hi, I'm only a 160 avg. bowler. My ball speed is around 14 mph and revolutions are low. I've been bowling quite awhile now and I still can't seem to get a consistent release. I've read some articles online and seen some video clips of proper releases and descriptions, but I still have trouble. How do I throw a proper hook? Am I supposed to keep a cupped wrist till the release and rotate my thumb from 2 o'clock to 10 o'clock? Do I hit up the ball? Do you know of a good web site to see video the proper release?

A. First let me say that trying to learn all the physical parts of our great sport is very difficult on your own. Try to find a good coach in your area and work with them. This will get your game to where you want it to be. You can't see what is going on you need someone to see for you.

The best way to get the idea of how to turn the ball and where is pretty simple. Here is a trick for you to try. The motion needed is exactly the same as throwing a football underhand and make it spiral. If you don't have a football just get a nerf football from any toy store and practice the motion. Put your hand under the ball do a back swing and release the ball underhanded try to make a perfect spiral and watch and feel the motion of the wrist and hand. This is what you want to do on the lanes with a little lift with the fingers at release. I hope this helps you get the motion down. Whether to cup the hand or not is a matter of choice but I don't recommend it because this has a tendency to lock up the forearm muscles. This in turn locks up your arm swing and can cause trouble.

As for a place to watch a video try the Ken Melvin website. There are releases and other videos on there even in slow motion. The address is http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/kennmelvin/kVideo.htm.

Q. My thumb has a callous on the left side of it. I am not sure if it is because it needs some taken out on that side or maybe the pitch is not right or maybe I am doing something I am not sure. I do stay behind it as much as I can. I can feel it only when I put my thumb in to it at the start. Then it rubs.

A. If your thumb is not sore then it is probably ok. We bowlers get calluses it is normal because of the repetitions. Most bowlers get a callous on the left side of the thumb. If you are hanging up on release on that side of the thumb then just take some off the top edge of the thumb hole where the thumb exits. If your thumb is getting sore then have your grip checked at your local pro shop. If you have the proper fit then you should not have any sore spots on your thumb or fingers.

Q. Bob, what do you do in the summer to keep your game in shape for the next bowling season?

A. I take it easy in the summer months to recuperate from a long winter of bowling. During the season I bowl at least two leagues. I am a director of a senior tour scratch group and also bowl in these tournaments. I also bowl in one or two other tournaments a month and in the Senior High Rollers in Las Vegas. So I use the summer to regroup. I do however bowl in a summer sports doubles league. This doesn't do much for the ego but at least I stay competitive. In August I will begin to practice more. I use this league and the August practice to get in some sort of shape for the August Senior Classic in Las Vegas. This has become my favorite High Roller event since winning the 50 and over division in 1998. This tournament is quickly approaching and I am going to be back in Las Vegas on August 27th thru at least the 31st. I would like to invite any of you who read my articles in the Ten Pin Alley to come on down to Sam's Town and watch some great bowling. I would also like to meet you and say hello! So if you see me there please introduce yourself and ask a question if you want.

Q. You advocate lessons all the time in your answers. Have you ever taken any lessons?

A. Yes I have, everyone can benefit from lessons no one knows everything and you can't see yourself when bowling. Tune up lessons are always helpful and they cost less than a new ball. The best part a lesson lasts longer than a new ball. In the spring of 1998 I was struggling big time at the ABC tournament in Reno. So after the tournament I took a lesson on Cats from Ron Degroat a Las Vegas instructor. Ron being a competitor in the Senior High rollers told me at the time that he hated to give lessons to fellow High Roller seniors because it seemed to always come back to bite him. We had a laugh, I took the lesson then won the next August Senior Classic thanks Ron that bite tasted real good. I am a believer that lessons are the key to getting to and staying on top.

Send your questions to askbob@clearwire.net

July 6, 2004

Q. I bowl fingertip. Without a wrist guard on, I can get little to no pin action. I can feel my wrist feeling very weak at the point where I'd need to be "Under the ball". During the back swing, it will go up fine, but when I bring it down, it feels very cumbersome like my wrist is not strong enough to support the weight of a ball. I have a 13-pound reactive (particle) & 12 pound plastic and I find the 12 pound slightly easier to bowl and get revs on, even without a wrist guard some action can be achieved. Is my ball too heavy and should I go lighter? 1 problem I would find in doing this is a lot of manufacturers don't make balls in lower weights to cater for that. When I feel that I am getting it right, my wrist ends up sore for about 2 days after.

A. It sounds like the ball might be a little heavy for you. There are some 12 lb balls out there with the good weight blocks. One company the does this is Dynothane. The newest ball from them is the Element AU 79 it is a very aggressive ball. Another good one from them is the Thing. This ball goes longer but finishes great. I also like the Vendetta pearl it is a polished particle pearl also goes longer and hits great. All of those come 12 lbs with the same weight block as the 16's. Below 12 you can't get the same weight block in the balls. So try to stay at least with 12. Also if you need it use the wristband that's what they are for. If they help you use it. You could try to build up some by using some light dumbbells start with 5 lbs and work up to 10 lbs do some curls and such to gain some strength in you arm and wrist. You can do that at home while watching television.

Q. I want to know how to gain muscle memory as fast as possible. My approach is not right and I am working on fixing my problem. I have a tournament coming up and I need to get this down as soon as possible. How should I proceed?

A. I wish I had an easy answer for you but I don't. The way to build muscle memory is through practice. This could come to you fast but most likely will take some time. I also would like to suggest to you to get a coach and take a lesson or two. It is good to work on what you know to be a problem but you want to work on the right problem. Muscle memory doesn't know if what it is doing is right or wrong. So get that approach checked out by an expert.

Q. My physical game is in pretty good shape right now but my mental game needs lots of help. How can I learn more about the mental game?

A. My suggestion is to email Dr. Dean Hinitz, he has written a book on the mental game specifically for bowlers. Dr. Hinitz is a clinical sports psychologist from Reno, Nevada and his articles appear regularly in the Bowling This Month. You can email him and order his book at hinitzlimited@aol.com. I have used some of his tips and they work very well. I myself am ordering his book as soon as I finish this article.

Thanks for reading. If you would like to ask a question write me at askbob@clearwire.net

June 9, 2004

Q. As an accomplished bowler of many years, my question to you is; can a stroker ever play inside? The house I bowl in has an outside shot I guess 10 to 10 dry. I can go up the boards very easily and average 200 plus. However, the way I get my average is 200's and 220's occasionally a 250. My game consists of a lot of raps. Most of the players that are scoring high are playing from the 15 board out. If I attempt that, my ball will go right at the 6 pin. Any suggestions on how I can play inside where I feel the carry is so much better?

A. I also am a stroker and we can play inside when the shot requires it. However it sounds like where you bowl there is just too much oil inside to play with the crankers. Our problem is not enough turn to get it back when the oil is heavy. So we have to go more up the boards. Here are a couple of things you can try. Use a more aggressive ball than what you are using. Sand the cover of a ball to get earlier roll. This way you might be able to move inside some. Another thing to do is experiment with drillings to create a stronger back end reaction this might help your carry.

Q. Just wondering what your views on bowling scores being to high, especially now with the introduction of new technology. It seems to be a big issue here in Australia at the moment. I suppose the question is are bowling lane conditions getting to easy now with less skill needed? And is high scoring having an adverse reaction on our sport?

A. It is not just the conditioning of lanes but also the power of the bowling balls that have increased scoring. It is having an adverse effect on the sport but technology is going on in all sports today. I would prefer things to be more like the old days but that's out of the question. All we can do is play the game we are given and do it the best we can. I believe the best player or team will still win most of the time. I bowl in a series of scratch tournaments in the area I live. The last 2 years the lanes have put out very tough shots by using sport shot and PBA oiling patterns. Guess what? The same bowlers win the most money. Tough or easy doesn't seem to matter. So I believe if we love the game we still take lessons, practice and try to become the best we can be. Also try to have fun doing it. I also think the ball companies have reached the end in ball improvements. They can only slightly tweak what has already been done. So I don't think scoring will get much higher. The hardest workers and most talented will still win the cash.

Q What do you think could be done to bring scores down, without losing even more league bowlers?

A. I believe the powers that be should look into changing the balance of the pins. Bowling balls have changed. Lane surfaces have changed. Oiling and cleaning equipment has gotten much better. Pins are the only part of the game that has been largely left alone. I wrote to the ABC about this a few years ago and was told that changing the pins would only drop averages by about 15 pins. I think 15 pins would be plenty. This means 300 games and 800 series would be harder to get. They would then start to mean something again. Back in the 60's even on very good shots a bowler was not rewarded for bad shots. Today in some centers it seems the best shot is the less than perfect shot. Dropping scores this way would have far less impact on the league bowlers that the sport shot. Bowlers would then realize that to stay competitive they would need to stay sharp with practice. Good shots would be rewarded, bad shots penalized. What a novel idea. Bowling lanes would make more money because practice would go up. The new pins could be introduced over time so the lanes wouldn't suffer any loss. They could have say a three-year time limit to change over. Just my opinion, but remember if this ever happens you read it here first.

Thanks for reading to ask a question write askbob@clearwire.net

May 16, 2004

Q. I have just taken up the game after many years away. I am a middle-aged lady and I am throwing a 14 lb. Ball. I feel like I am not throwing it hard enough should I consider a lighter ball?

A. If you are of small stature then a lighter ball could be your answer. It also could be that after these many years of not bowling you may have a timing or swing problem. I suggest you find a coach in your area to make sure that this slow speed is not caused by a swing problem. A coach could also tell you if the ball weight is correct. Thanks for the question and welcome back to our great game.

Q. I have seen you bowl and noticed that you have 3 finger holes in your ball. Why do you have a pinkie finger hole?

A. I started using a pinkie finger hole about 6 years ago because of a very sore wrist. I was to the point of having to quit the game because of the wrist pain. I had tried everything wristbands, taping the wrist and pain medication. Nothing helped. The pinkie hole solved the problem the wrist pain is gone. Now this grip feels so comfortable to me that even though I don't need it anymore I don't want to change back. There is another advantage to a pinkie finger it mellows out the roll of the ball. Since going to that grip I get less under/over reaction and a better read of the lanes. The disadvantage is that I have lost some carry power the ball flairs less and entry angle is cut down. Sometimes though you have to give something up to gain something else. Losing some carry is better than not being able to bowl at all. Over all this has been a good move the quicker read of the lanes and more accuracy seems to balance out the reduced carry.

Q. I am going down in ball weight. I have been using 16lbs. And I am now going to 15lbs. My problem is I can't afford to switch everything all at once. Do think I will have any problem switching back and forth from 15 to 16?

A. Every one is different but if your game is solid you should be ok. I have some experience with this because my arsenal contains both 14 and 15-pound balls. I personally don't have any problem going back and forth. Here is a hint though going down in weight during a league session is easier than going up in weight. After using the lighter ball for a while then going up the ball feels much heavier for a frame or two. Going lighter is unnoticeable. I have also changed weight in tournaments and I can go up or down and not notice the weight difference because of the effect of the adrenalin rush of tournament play.

Send questions to askbob@clearwire.net

April 25, 2004

Q. I went bowling at a house that is new too me last week. I have to go back there for a tournament later this month and I am scared to death. I am left-handed and when I tried to play my usual line the 3 to 5 board the lanes would not hook at all. It was like the lanes were tipped toward the gutter. Nothing I own would work. Can you help please?

A. Yes, we have all faced this problem at one time or another. If nothing will hook in the oil on that part of the lane then you have to change the line you are playing. Try going to the 2nd arrow or even deeper to the 12 to 20 board somewhere in there might be a great shot. You are looking for some hold in the front part of the lane and drier boards in the back part of the lane for reaction. I do know this you can't keep playing directly in the oil so you have to learn to get comfortable with other areas of the lane. Practice, practice, practice.

Q. I have been bowling for years, but just recently just got back into it. I am having trouble with my delivery. What does it mean when some say to line up on 17 or 18 and aim for ten? I am so confused by what that means? I'm a left-hander also. What is it I should look for on the lane to line up with? Any help would greatly be appreciated.

A. I will answer this as a left-hander. Most people use the inside of the left foot as the part of the foot to put on the board for lining up. Now the 18 on the approach is 2 boards left of the big center dot. The center dot is the 20 board. So they are telling you put the inside of your left foot on the 18 or 2 boards left of the center dot and throw the ball over the 10 board which is the 2nd arrow from the gutter. The first arrow the one closest to the gutter is the 5 board. 2nd arrow the 10 board the 3rd arrow is the 15 board and the center arrow the one furthest out is the 20. For you right-handers do just the opposite. The arrows are numbered the same way on the right side. If this has confused you right-handers this is how the left-handers have had to learn the game. Everything has been written for right-handers and the lefties have to reverse the instructions. So next time you are bowling with a left-hander cut them a break it wasn't easy for them to learn the game.

Q. When I bowl in league the first part of the night goes well but after a game and a half or so the ball starts to hook early and messes up my game. I try to move in deeper a board or two but the ball hooks even more. What can I do?

A. You are getting oil breakdown in the front part of the lane. Moving inside is the correct move. With today's equipment though sometimes a board or two is not near enough. The modern bowling balls dry out the lanes further down and lots more than in the old days. It also has to do with the other players on your pair. Example, if you are playing the 10 board and most of the others are playing deeper like 13 to15. Then when the shot dries out for you and you move 2 boards you are moving into where they have been playing. BOOM! Your ball hooks more, lots more you just moved to a spot they have just moved from. You have to go past that spot maybe as much as 5 boards to catch some head oil and then throw the ball to where they were playing. Today's game sometimes requires faster and larger moves than even 10 years ago. So give it a try it should solve your problem.

To ask a question write Bob Korth at askbob@clearwire.net

March 30, 2004

Q. If the same oil pattern is put down on wooden lanes and synthetic lanes, is there any rule of thumb that should hold true as far as how to play the different surfaces?

A. Great question, synthetic lanes are usually smoother than wood lanes. So the ball should go thru the heads cleaner and longer. Then they usually finish stronger for a sharper break point. This all depends on how much oil is being applied and how far down the oil goes in length. I have to use a ball that rolls a little earlier on synthetic in order to be able to read the mid-lane. Generally my longer equipment gives me too much under/over on synthetics. Just like with all lanes though they are all different and synthetics wear out too. For instance the synthetic lanes at the National Stadium are worn out. The heads are shot and they act more like wood at times again depending on where they put the shot. I hope this helps?

Q. I read in the Internet something about a method of drilling called "degree layout". Is this a new way of drilling? I can see from their illustration variable degrees from let say 0-25, and then there is a 35-45,and so on up to 315 degrees. If there is no mass bias marking on a ball, how can I locate the mass bias? Do you know about this?

A. For the answer to this question go to Denny Torgorson's web site www.dennysproshop.com. Denny wrote up a step by step sheet on the different degree layouts Denny is a friend of mine that I traveled and roomed with on the Senior PBA tour a few years ago. He sells the information you are looking for. He is and expert in ball layout and writes for Bowling This Month magazine. It is not expensive and is a very good reference sheet. Actually 4 reference sheets, these are just a more precise way of laying out the ball a little more detailed than the clock layout method. I bought the diagrams from Denny and they are very helpful. They cost about $30.00. To find the mass bias location on a ball without a mass bias marking draw a line from the pin thru the cg. Then measure 6 and ¾ inches from the pin this will be the mass bias location.

In a previous article I made a mistake in an answer and identified the ABC official web site incorrectly. I want to revise my error. The ABC web site is www.bowl.com.

To get simple answers to your questions write askbob@clearwire.net

March 8, 2004

Q. I do what I call "pull the ball" Which means that I throw the ball to the left of my target. I don't mean by a board sometimes it is 5. I would not worry about it except sometimes I do it 2 or more times in a row. I am not sure what I could be doing wrong. Is there anything I could look for that would cause you to do this?

A. There could be several reasons for this the most likely one is carrying the ball before starting the push away. You need someone to watch you to make sure but if you aren't moving the ball in coordination with your first step. The result is you have to hurry the arm swing this causes you to muscle the ball in the downswing and causes a pull every time. Get a local good bowler you know or a coach to watch and see if you are carrying the ball for a step or more before moving it forward. If you are start the ball sooner and the problem is solved.

Q. I am right handed and I can never play the same line all night. As the night goes on my ball quits driving in the back end. It slides through. I'm assuming that it is because the oil gets carried down to the back ends? Is this common?

A. This is very common and it is called oil carry down. If you start leaving weak ten's or a bucket or some other tell tale sign. Move your feet and spot right 1 or 2 boards this should help or change to a more aggressive ball.

Q. I sometimes pull out the side of the ball instead of staying under the ball. I really hate when I do this. How can I fix this?

A. I think you mean overturn or chicken wing. Try this think ring finger. As you are going thru your approach think aim at the mark and follow thru with your ring finger. This will keep you behind the ball longer.

To ASK BOB write askbob@clearwire.net all questions will be answered.

February 28, 2004

Q. How do you handle the dreaded third game? First your track dries up then after you move in you cannot carry the ten pin, change balls to a dull ball and splits start popping up. After a 238,300 then 160. Help?

1.. Do you have a ball with a little more back end pop? Something with a little higher rg. or slightly shiny. What is happening to you is two things. First the heads dry out a little and this makes you move in. Then the back ends have carry down so the ball won't quite finish. This leaves you corners. Instead of going dull try going shiny even if you have to move a little right. The shiny ball should go thru the heads and still have energy at the back. To get you the back end reaction you want. Dull uses up too much energy in the front end and doesn't want to carry. Shiny should retain energy and carry. You will have to experiment a bit you don't want to be too shiny and it does depend on the ball cover some. PS stay, away from particle the last game they tend to lose energy in the front of the lane later. If you are using a particle go to a reactive cover you like the last game that might be all you need.

Q. It must be really great to be you. You always have an answer for everything. So you must always win. How do you handle all that success?

A. Well thanks for your support but truth be known. I don't have every answer for myself. Yes I do know how to move and I do know what ball to use. Just like everyone else I don't always make the right decision. Often I guess wrong just like everyone else. I do try to put those bad decisions into memory for the next time. Maybe that way I will get a jump-start on the field in the next tournament. I have found that every time I bowl I learn something I didn't know either about myself or the shot I encountered at the time, I try to learn something new each and every time out. When I write this article it is to try to help you avoid the mistakes I have made and I have made plenty. When I have problems the guys I bowl with say why don't you ASK BOB. Thanks for the advice I think I will try that next time.

Q. I just got a copy of the new edition of the ABC Bowlers Encyclopedia. In this new edition I saw you listed in a category all by yourself. This category was the most 800's in consecutive decades. You are listed as the record holder of 800's in 5 consecutive decades. Do you remember what the composition of the balls you used during this amazing string?

A. Thanks for the kind words and yes I do know, my first was in 1965 and it was with a Brunswick Track Master 1 this was a hard rubber ball. In the 70's I had 3 800's my highest was an 844 with a Bonanza Yellow Dot by Columbia this was a plastic ball like we use for spares today. The 800 I had in the 80's was the new composition cover of the time a urethane Track U-2. Then my next one in the 90's was in the Oregon State Tournament with an Ebonite reactive urethane the Crush-R. I also had another in the 90's with a Track Enforcer this ball is a particle ball. Then in 2001 in another Oregon State tournament event I had the record setter in two ways I had 824 in the doubles It was with a Hammer Tour 3D a reactive with Mica. This gave me the 800 in 5 consecutive decades and also an Oregon State all events record of 2316 for 9 games, which still stands today. It is a very good feeling to have set a record by spanning all of the equipment that we have been introduced to over the last 40 years it proves that bowlers can adapt to change. Thanks for asking.

February 13, 2004

Q. I have trouble with approaches being either too slippery or to slow. I have heard there are alternatives to regular bowling shoes now. What can you tell me about these new adjustable shoes?

A. Yes there are choices in bowling shoes today. Linds makes the Lind Extra that has leather slide soles with holes in the sole in which you can place different textured buttons to adjust your slide. You can get smooth leather or Teflon, softer textured leather or you could use rubber to slow down your slide. These holes are in different spots on the slide sole and you can use a combination of buttons. Lind's are still made in the old regular bowling shoe look. They are well made and last a long time. They aren't quite as comfortable as the next two styles but are still very good shoes. Their web site is www.linds.com Then you can get Dexter's they have a newer modern look and feature interchangeable slide soles and heels. They start at very slow slide and progress to a very slick sole for long slide. They also come with the interchangeable heel for the same reason they range from sticky to slick for those of us who come down on the heel. Dexter's are very comfortable and the higher end shoe has a very wide footprint for better balance. The Dexter web site is www.dextershoes.com. Type bowling into the search box. Then there is a new comer to the bowling shoe world the ABS it is distributed by Dyno-thane, yes the bowling ball company. They have the Tour Ultra the uppers are made from Kangaroo leather it is very strong flexible and lightweight. Some say they are like wearing slippers. They too have a wide footprint for stability and come with interchangeable soles and heels. You have a choice with ABS between a solid sole or you can easily make them into a button type sole for more slide combinations. Check with your local pro shop for more information or you can check them out on the web. The ABS web site is www.dynothane.com. None of the shoes listed above are cheap but most are less than a new ball and last many years longer. For the advanced bowler these shoes can be just as important as the right ball.

Q. How can I get information on the Las Vegas High Roller tournaments?

A. You can call their toll free number at 1-800-257-6179 or go to the web site at www.high-roller.com. Don't forget the dash between high -roller to get to the correct site. Here you can get information, tournament schedules, brochures, and results from previous or on going tournaments.

Q. When you leave a split in a game do you always go for the spare or is it best to get the best count you can?

A. I believe it is most of the time best to take the count especially if you are on a strike. Now there are times when you do want to go for the spare, let me explain. If it is a baby split you do have a reasonable chance to pick it up. Same with some of the other not so tough splits like a 5-10 or 5-7, even the 4-9 or 6-8. Now big splits 7-10, 4-6, the big 4 or those types of combinations most of the time you just want to save count. The only time to go for them is late in a game and making it is your only chance to win. Now let me tell you a story as to why you want to go for count. In the 1997 Thanksgiving Senior High Roller I was in the final match bowling for $30,000 dollars. I left a big 4 early now I did not mean to miss them but I did not take enough time and my ball hooked into the left gutter. I was on a strike and this miss cost me 4 pins. Missing 2 on a strike costs 4 pins. It was early and I thought I could make them up but a solid 10 and a solid 8 pin stopped me from getting the double that I now needed. I lost that match game and the title by 1 pin so that missed count cost me $15,000. The difference between 1st and 2nd and a prestigious title. So take it from my first hand experience and get the pin count. I know I will from now on.

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